The Mysteries of Nidhivan

Every year millions set foot on Vrindavan with one motive: to witness Krishna’s raasleela. This dance of coquetry has riddled the pages of Indian mythology for ages, and has lured people from around the world into the folds of Brajbhoomi, Krishna’s land. While Mathura was where Krishna was born and Gokul where he was raised, it was Vrindavan that witnessed his youthful dalliance with gopis. A wooded corner of this dusty city continues to sing of the lovestruck mysteries of the lord even in the 21st century.

Nidhivan, the tulsi forest. Photo: umang saraf/Flickr

This corner is a part of old Vrindavan, thriving as a forest called Nidhivan. Nidhivan is a tulsi or holy basil forest where tall plants grow intertwined in pairs of two. A temple and a shrine stud the premises, and a honeycomb of cenotaphs line the outer areas. Children from across the world circle back here to set up fond remembrances of their deceased parents. It is believed that a decorated cenotaph erected in Krishna’s land brings good fortune for lives to come.

A criss-cross tunnel of cane has been set up through the forest for tourists to witness its majesty from inside. As the story goes, the forest was planted by Haridas who, through his severe penance, invited Krishna to visit it. Since then, Krishna is believed to visit the place every night. Instances of supernatural happenings and a strong belief in his presence have added to the allure of this pocket of nature.

It is common to come across a devotee in Vrindavan who says that Krishna breathes in the soil of this land. But when it comes to Nidhivan, this belief seems to hold true. Locals believe that every night after sundown, Krishna visits the forest and dances in dalliance. The holy basil trees twist free from their natural shackles and transform into gopis. No human has ever witnessed the scenario, but there's enough anecdotal data to inspire belief. Neighbours to the forests have often reported strange sounds of flute and anklets emanating from the forest at night. There were many who got curious enough to trespass the land in the dark. But whoever spent a night in Nidhivan always came out shocked and deranged, unable to hold a reliable conversation. A media house purportedly placed CCTV cameras inside the forest once, but the next morning the cameras were retrieved with no footage on them. The perfectly working devices had recorded nothing.

The small marble structures are the memorials of people who dared to stay in Nidhivan after 8pm. Photo: Sharan Traveller

The priests of Vrindavan have their own accounts to share. In the Rang Mahal temple of Nidhivan, Radha is believed to visit every night. The temple is revered as her shringar ghar or makeup house. The chief priest of the temple lays makeup, saris, a toothbrush and ornaments for the idol every night, only to come back and find everything used and scattered the next morning. The strange part is that the doors to the temple are locked under five locks every night. The temple closes at 5pm, and no one is allowed in after hours.

During the day though, the two and a half acres of forest land are thronged by monkeys and chirping birds. While the sun shines, the mysteries of the lord are isolated from the reverence for his powers, and all humans bow their heads alike, whether curious or impervious.

References
# Times Travel
# Kalinga TV