Japan's Forbidden Colours

Before the modern period, in Japan, certain colours were strictly regulated by law and custom, and wearing them without permission could be considered an act of social or even political defiance. These were called kinjiki, or “forbidden colours”, and were reserved for the emperor and for members of the court hierarchy.

The system developed during the classical court culture of the Heian period (794–1185), when the imperial court in Kyoto cultivated a highly refined aesthetic culture. Clothing, poetry, etiquette, and even colours were governed by strict codes. Colour, in particular, became a visible marker of rank.

"Plum Blossoms at Night" by Utagawa Kuniyoshi. Credit: Wikimedia Commons

The system of forbidden colours was part of a broader structure that regulated court attire. The colours were divided into categories based on rank, age, and privilege. The regulations determined which colours could be worn by each rank of official, and certain shades were reserved exclusively for the emperor or the highest nobility.

In total, there were eight forbidden colours:

	Sumac-dyed
	Pale oak
	Sawtooth oak
	Ochre
	Deep purple
	Rich gardenia
	Deep scarlet
	Sappanwood

Only courtiers of sufficiently high standing could wear these colours, and even then only if the emperor granted explicit permission.

Among the most famous forbidden colour was the sumac dye which was forbidden to be used by anyone except the Japanese monarch. Extracted from sumac (Toxicodendron succedaneum), a Japanese wax tree, this colour is only used for the outerwear of the Emperor of Japan. To this day, the ceremonial clothes of the Emperor worn during the enthronement ceremony are dyed in this colour.

Seven additional forbidden colours were added during the 10^th and 11^th centuries.

• Pale oak is the colour of the outer-robes of the Emperor of Japan. However, this colour could also be worn by the concubines and mistresses of the monarch, who were in the position of palace servants of the 4th rank, as well as secretaries of the treasury of the 6th rank.
• Sawtooth oak is the colour of the outerwear of the ex-Emperor of Japan.
• Ochre is the colour of the outerwear of the crown prince of Japan.
• Deep purple is the outerwear colour of 1st rank aristocrats.
• Rich gardenia is a reserve forbidden colour, a substitute for ochre. Produced from the fruits of gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides), permission to wear this colour could be granted by imperial rescript.
• Deep scarlet is an alternate forbidden colour, a substitute for deep purple. Permission to wear this colour could be granted by imperial rescript.
• Sappanwood is a reserve forbidden colour, a substitute for deep purple. Produced from the fruit of Biancaea sappan, permission to wear this colour could be granted by imperial rescript.

Over the centuries, the strict courtly regulations surrounding colour gradually weakened, until the ban was lifted during the Meiji period in the 19^th century. Nevertheless, the symbolic association between certain colours and authority, especially sumac, ochre and gardenia, persists to this day.